Showing posts with label Tutorial. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tutorial. Show all posts

Friday, November 30, 2018

The care and feeding of brushes, and how to fix them when you don’t.


Using your brushes so that they last a lifetime.

  We all know that we need to care for our brushes, but after seeing some things recently, I have come to understand that there are a lot of people who don't know how to just that yet.  So here are my guidelines for how to care for your brushes, and what to do if you don't sometimes...
  These are guidelines, not rules to live by.  We all have habits, some bad and some good.  These are really just things to think about was you use your brushes.  I would, however, say things in the ‘never’ list you really should try to avoid doing.

       Always

o      Use a brush for one medium only.  Don’t use the same brushes for oil paints (or oil washes) and then acrylics.   The stuff used to clean oil brushes is pretty harsh (mineral spirits) and will really wear a brush out. 
o      Always wet a brush before you start painting.  Don't pick up paint with a dry brush.Unless you're dry-brushing, of course.
o      Once a brush is charged with paint, begin painting with it immediately.  This will pull the paint away from the ferrule.
o      Once you have rinsed a brush, shake out the excess water rather than rubbing or squeezing it out with a cloth or paper towel.  Never pinch and pull on the tuft with a towel, as this will break or pull out the hairs.
o      Wash and shape the brush hairs when you finish your work session, using lukewarm water and a commercial artists' brush cleaner (links below)
o      Treat synthetic brushes with the same care as natural hair brushes.  The rule to never rest a brush on its tip is even more important with synthetic brushes since they tend to retain any shape they get into.
o      Dip out and mix paints with an old brush or stick, never your best brushes.  If you’re mixing on a palette using your good brushes, just be sure not to get paint up in the ferrule.  

       Never

o      ‘Reshape’ a brush with scissors or X-Acto blade.  Trimming the ends of a natural hair brush leaves them in a 'broken' state and they will never get back to 'normal'.
o      Never hold a loaded brush with the tip pointing upwards.  The paint will ‘wick’ towards the ferrule and make it harder to clean.
o      Leave a brush sitting point down in water
o      Leave a brush wet with paint for extended periods
o      Let it dry out with paint on it especially in the tuft (or ferrule)
o      Clean or rinse a brush in hot water.  Hot water can affect the glue up in the ferrule and allow the hairs to pull out or get misshaped.
o      Avoid submerging the tuft in paint for long periods. This encourages the capillary action that causes paint to migrate up the hairs into the ferrule, where it is difficult to get out.
o      Do not submerge the brush in water beyond the top of the ferrule. Water will seep into the ferrule from either end.  This could cause the handle to swell, crack, and loosen in the ferrule.

Cleaning brushes correctly

  Cleaning is really straightforward, but if you’re not doing it right, you can really ruin brushes fast.  The cheaper the brushes, the more they get affected by bad practices.
       Never use hot water!  (see above)
       Use a purpose-made brush soap (Masters or Jentastic Goop), baby shampoo or something super gentle.  Never use hand soap or harsh cleansers.
o      Get the brush good and wet with water, swirl it in the soap until it lathers up a bit, then brush it in the palm of your hand to ‘scrub’ the bristles.  Never jab it or move it in a motion that would go against the ‘grain’ of the hairs.  Always be ‘pulling’ it toward the natural lay of the hairs. 
o      Rinse the soap out carefully in water, swirling it around for a while. 
o      Once cleaned, shake excess water from the brush.  Don’t dry a brush by wiping the tuft with a towel.  If necessary, shape the brush gently against the side of your finger so that it comes to a balanced point. Wash brushes need to be shaken out more assertively, as they hold more water.
o      If you’re crazy like me, now is the time to dip it into some hair conditioner (you’re wife’s bottle is probably in the shower, go grab a small squeeze of it in a small seal-able cup.  She won’t mind.)  Seriously, brushes are just animal hairs, and they dry out.  Conditioner helps them

Remedies - When you don't follow the 'guidelines'

  A good brush is always worth the investment. Not only is the finest quality, natural hair brush a joy to use, it can always be returned to its original state no matter how bad you treat it.  Cheap ‘box store’ brushes are not so forgiving.  Everyone I have met who swears by cheap brushes changes their tune when they start using quality brushes.
  That said, poor care and use of brushes can lead to them getting really hard to use.  Most often, the head of a brush will start to splay as pigment becomes trapped between the hairs in the ferrule.  This is what normally keeps them from holding a good point.  This will occur if paint is not thoroughly washed from the brush after every use, or the brush is used too aggressively to pick up or apply paint.  There are ways to fix this though!

   Winsor & Newton sells a brush restorer chemical that is designed to ‘gently’ eat the paint that has dried in the ferrule.  I have used this stuff with great success on even some of the most abused brushes (Elric!).  All you need to do is put the brush into the bottle of cleaner (or a separate container, see the photo.) up to and a little past the ferrule.  This will let the cleaner fluid work the dried acrylic out of the brush.  They recommend soaking the brush for hours or even overnight if need be. 




  Once it has soaked for a decent period of time, run through the cleaning cycle.  Use clean water, brush soap and gentle scrubbing.

Hair conditioner

  As brushes are used and cleaned in normal painting, the natural oils in the hairs are worn or washed away. The usual symptoms are that the hairs will begin to look dried out or frizzled, the brush will not point as promptly when wet, and stray hairs begin to appear.   Some folks will use brush soap and actually leave it in the bristles without washing it out.  Let it dry them in an hour or so, rinse it thoroughly.  Most times that will work to recondition the brush.
  You can also wet and wash the brush in lukewarm water and then apply a small amount of hair conditioner to the wet clean hairs, work it in thoroughly with your fingertips, shape the brush to a point or flat edge, and let it sit for an hour or so. Thoroughly rinse out the conditioner and shape the brush to dry, and repeat if necessary.

Brush shaper or Gum arabic.

  After washing, if the hairs or bristles are still crazy splayed out, you can use gum arabic or brush shaper to shape the brush back to a point (most natural hair brushes come preshaped with gum Arabic on them and need to be cleaned before use).  Dip the brush in the brush shaper or gum arabic solution, shape with your fingers, and set it down where it can rest undisturbed to dry.   The longer it sits, the better the result will be.  Keep in mind though, if there is dried paint in the ferrule, it will not stay pointed for long after this treatment.  Go back to the remedy section.

Stray hairs.

  Almost always, just leave these alone, as long as the brush shapes to a good point and the strays do not interfere with your brushwork.  If you need to remove a nuisance hair, grip the hair carefully with thumb and finger, or a pair of tweezers near, the visible base (not the tip) of the hair shaft, pull it down and to the side against the edge of the ferrule, and snap it off at the edge, using the ferrule edge to cut it.  Try not to ‘pull it out’ from the ferrule, as it will leave a tiny bit of a hole in the glue and allow gunk to build up.  Don’t try to cut stray hairs with scissors or a blade, you won’t be able to trim it close to the ferrule without damaging the tuft.   
  Never attempt to "trim" stray hairs by holding the dry brush tuft near or against a flame. This will very likely burn off other hairs in the tuft and can invisibly blunt the tips of the hairs in the point as well.

Storage

o      Never store a wet brush upright, the liquid will just wick up into the ferrule and that’s never good.  Leave the brush horizontal or face down (not resting on the hairs) to dry, then store them upright.
o      Never store a damp brush in an airtight container. The dampness will cause mildew, and that will destroy the brush hairs.  Baaad!
o      Don't store brushes near heat (furnace vents, sunlit windows).  Heat is not a brush’s friend.

Traveling with brushes

o      To carry brushes on trips, use a brush roll holder or something expressly designed for that purpose.  Lots of companies sell roll up or zippered pocketed holders for brushes.  Tossing them into a box may not always be the best answer, they take a lot of abuse banging around like that.
o      Once home, brushes should be immediately unpacked from the holders, cleaned, shaped and dried in the usual way.  (Unless you already did it on your trip…)

  Always remember, once a brush is useless for one purpose, find something else for it to do.  Maybe it becomes the brush you use to pull paints out of a pot, or mix on your palette?  Maybe it becomes a new drybrush?  
  So there you have it, just an average painters ideas about taking care of your brushes.  Do you have to follow this like law?  Hell no, nobody would, but if I manage to change one bad habit, my work here will be done!

Wednesday, November 21, 2018

The mini painters drying/curing chamber

   So, I made a thing. It’s a thing almost nobody needs. The thing is, when you need this thing, you need it like nothing else ever. (Everyone needs a Thneed…)
   Yes, I present the miniature painters drying/curing chamber. In a nutshell, this is just a very low power heater and two computer fans in a box. The low power heater is just there to provide a LITTLE warmth, but not necessarily heat. The fans are the key part, since acrylics dry more with air movement than heat. (It’s an evaporative process…)
   The one I built is proof of concept, and it works. It is neither pretty, nor does it use the best materials. I am certain there are far better choices for materials out there, feel free to experiment and tell me all about it. I would love to do a version 2!
   This is not a step by step tutorial, but rather a series of ideas stitched together with pictures. You’ll get the idea as we progress.

What you need

  • A box to be the chamber. I used a “Really Useful Box” in the 9.1 liter size. I chose it because it had nice straight sides to mount the fans on and it also fit the size of the heater nicely. $12.00
  • A power transformer of 12VDC or less. You can find these labelled as ‘chargers’ all over the place. You probably have some in a drawer somewhere that you can’t recall what they charge. The output has to be less than 12v DC but more than 5v DC. The fans normally look for 12 VDC but will also work on 5 VDC at a much slower speed. I found one that was 8.7VDC. You will cut the end off, so make sure you don’t need it for anything else.

  • 2 Computer fans – I used 80mm fans I got from Best Buy for $6.99 each. You don’t want super-fast rotational LED lit OMG fans. Just cheap 12v computer fans. (More on why later)
  • A reptile heating pad. They sell these at pet stores, they must be avoided at all costs!!!! The pet store markup is on average 300%. I found the same reptile heating pad on amazon (7w) for $9.99 while at the pet store is $39.99. I went with 7W because it is low heat and won’t burn the plastic box, while still providing some ambient warmth in the box. Remember, we want warm, not hot.
  • A rack of some kind to set minis on. I used granny grating from a Hobby Lobby, you might find a nice metal rack or make something of your own… Be free, choose wisely! (Granny grating is the latch hook rug stuff you can find at craft stores in the yarn sections. It’s just plastic sheet with lots of square holes in it. Makes great basing and terrain material too. It’s about $2 for more than you’ll ever use ;)

You will need some tools as well.


  • A soldering iron to connect the wires on the fans and maybe the heating pad as well (if it has a regulator switch). If you are not handy with a soldering iron, you can use wire nuts from the hardware store and splice connectors from the same store.
  • A Dremel tool to drill the holes in the box. You could also use just a regular drill and bits, but the Dremel makes it faster.
  • A multi-meter. You need this to check the polarity of the wiring of everything. You can get them super cheap at Dollar stores, Wal-Mart etc. You do not need a Fluke $300 job, just one that shows volts DC.
  • A wild sense of abandon and experimentation…

A note on safety

 

YOU WILL BE WORKING WITH ELECTRICAL WIRES. NEVER SOLDER OR WORK ON ANY PART OF THIS WITH ANY THING PLUGGED IN TO A LIVE OUTLET. YOU COULD DIE!!!!!!!
Yeah, I know, safety warnings are lame, but seriously, make sure this stuff is unplugged before you do anything. Don’t be a Darwin award winner.

Assembly steps. Kinda…



   First up, measure and drill the holes for the fans on the opposite sides of the box. I drilled the first hole, started the screw to hold it in place then drilled the rest. One the holes are drilled, you’ll need to remove the plastic on the box for the fan to blow through. I found the easy way was to mark the opening for the fan, then drill a bunch of holes in the plastic, then used a hobby keyhole saw to “connect the dots”. I mounted my fans inside the box, just to make it easier to store and not worry about knocking the fans about. You do lose a little room, but it’s not a big deal.
 
   I also mounted one fan near the bottom of the box and one closer to the top. I ‘think’ it gives a little better airflow, but who knows. As you mount the fans, take a note of the direction of the airflow. Each fan will have an arrow on its case that shows which way the air flows through it. You’ll need to mount one fan to ‘pull air in’ and the other fan to blow the air out. This will make sure that all the air that goes through the box will flow across the minis in the box. 

   Next, you’ll need to install the heater. Mine has a big power regulator/switch about halfway up the cord. There was no way I wanted to drill that big a hole in the box, so I marked my cord and cut it. If you’re not seriously confident of your electrical skillz, just drill/cut a hole big enough for the cable then use duct tape to close it up. If you are confident in splicing/soldering the cables, just separate the 2 cords of the cable, mark it with tape in two places and cut away. The splice them together after you run it through the hole in the box. MAKE SURE IT IS NOT PLUGGED IN!!!!!
   Just place the heating pad on the bottom and either tape or hot glue it down.  Simple as that.  Run the cord out and you're almost home.
   Now, to wire the fans. This is fun. The fans will have a red wire, a black wire and a blue wire (normally). Red is positive, black is negative and the blue wire is not needed here. (It reports the fan’s RPM to the computer in case you’re wondering.) We want to but the wires off as close to the computer connecter as you can. Then cut the blue wire off and throw it away or save it for other projects. Also cut off the power transformer near the tip.
   This is where you need the multi-meter and SAFETY! Strip off some wire from each side of the transformer cable. Make sure the exposed wires stay separate (Tape them to your work surface so that they do not touch.) Plug the transformer in and use the probes to find the positive wire. (The red probe will be on the positive wire when the meter indicates positive voltage. If the meter shows a minus sign, switch the two probes until you see positive voltage (no minus sign)). Mark the positive side with tape and UNPLUG THE TRANSFORMER.
  Now, either solder the newly found positive wire to the two red wires or use the wire nuts to connect them. Do the same for the black fan wires and the negative wire from the transformer. Now is test number one. Plug the transformer in and make sure the fans spin, and that that flow the air correctly (one in, one out of the box).
   To make the shelf, I just cut out some Granny grating to fit the box, leaving a space for the fans. Then I hot glued that to five, one inch long dowels and set it in the box.
  Voila! You have a mini curing, drying box.

How to use it

   The nice part about having the dual plugs, one for fans and one for heat is simple. If you just want to dry wash or a layer of paint, put the mini in, put on the lid, plug the fans in and let the air current do the work. If you need to do a more serious cure, say green stuff, texture paints or some other thick stuff, you can add the heater to the outlet.
   The heater at such low wattage is not going to warm up all that much. Remember, it’s designed to not hurt a small lizard, so it’s just going to warm the air a tiny bit.
   But Bill, can’t you do the same thing with a blow dryer? Why yes, Jimmy, you can. But while you’re sitting there holding the blow dryer on your model(s), you’re not painting other models, or building, or taking the wife to lunch. It just saves time…
   Is it perfect, naaah. It is cool though! I love it for getting washes dried in half the time as usual, and for setting texture paints on bases in short order.
  Let me know what you think. (I already know I’m crazy, no need for that…)


Sunday, June 12, 2016

Improving your wet Palette

  Hey guys,  just a quick video on improving your wet palette.  Using some real artist tools makes a big difference.








Thursday, May 26, 2016

Molding an airbrush custom handle with Sugru


  Hey guys,

  Just wanted to share a quick post/tip.  I have a Sotar 20/20 airbrush and I love the comfort handle it has.  Unfortunately, neither my Iwata Eclipse or H&S Infinity have the same thing.  Then I thought about the packets of Sugru I have sitting around.  5 minutes later, I have a nice comfort grip on the brush.  It's actually better than the Sotar, because it is much softer.

  If you don't know, Sugru is a moldable rubber product that you use to do lots of things with.  It dires in about 24 hours and becomes very rubbery, not solid and hard.  It's great for molding handles onto things, I've also used it to make x-acto blade handles more comfortable and less "rolly".  Here is a link to the product on Amazon.

  Anyhow, you just knead it a while, shape it to what you want then apply it.  It sticks to jut about anything (but it can be removed if you hate what you did...).   So I shaped it, put it on the airbrush then went through the motions of using it to get the fit right.  Then I just let it cure overnight and presto, instant comfortable airbrush handle. 

  So, that's it.  Hope it helps somebody!




Thursday, March 31, 2016

More Age of Sigmar Markers (free!)

 Hello folks!

  I made up some new markers for Age of Sigmar after playing a few more games.  These are the same 1 inch rounds from the last time.  I will link to the round hole cutter and the nice plastic caps as well.  Without further ado, here they are;

Set #2

Set #3

As you can see, they are more focused on rerolls and effects that add and subtract from things.  There are also some General markers to make sure everyone knows where your leader is.

Here are some links for you to download them;


Zip file with everything - includes the PDF, PNG, JPG and Autodesk Graphic files.

A link to the post on how to assemble them and get the toys you need is here.

  So, there you go.  I hope someone finds them a little useful!  I know I sure do!

Wednesday, January 13, 2016

How to save your paints from drying in the pot

Hey guys,

  A quick video with a tip to help save your paints...



Or view straight from youtube at https://youtu.be/4EJrzka_BG4

Take care!

Sunday, March 22, 2015

Markers for 40k games - Easy as cake

  Hey guys!  Just wanted to share a quick piece of work I did the last couple of weeks, markers for my 40k game.  Now, the reason for these is simple, I forget everything, good and bad.  I forget if I moved with jump packs in the movement phase, I forget ever-living etc. I would forget my dice if I didn't have a huge game tote to bring everything in.

 So, enter the fine folk at Objective Secured who made fantastic markers for Infinity.  So, I stole the idea and used it for 40k (and soon for Dropzone Commander as well.)

  Turns out, these are dead easy to make!  All you need is your favorite art program, some bottle cap inserts from amazon and patience.

I made three sheets so far, but I will be making more as time goes on.  I just played a game of dropzone commander and I saw a huge need for these in that game as well.   Here are the sheets made in the YouTube video...  Download links are after the jump break.



Instructions and more photos after the jump break... 

Wednesday, December 31, 2014

Magnet Installation helper / tool

  Did a quick tutorial / how to for a magnet installation tool that takes the guesswork out of magnet polarity and makes installing them easier.  Someone may find it useful??


HAPPY NEW YEAR to all!!!!

Thursday, January 30, 2014

The 3,453rd quick and easy stone base idea!

   Howdy folks.  I know, I know, there are about a gozillion "EASY" ways to make stone bases for the minis.  Here is gozillion and 1.  But no, really, this is really easy, and fun, and simple...

  At the railroad hobby stores they have plastic sheets with textures already imprinted on them.  These textures are very deep cut and are perfectly easy to use as press molds.  Here are the simple steps;

1.  Get a sheet of stone, brick, cobblestone or whatever you like.  I got mine from Caboose Hobbies.  Mine is called "Crazy Paving" and it is a G-Scale material.
2. Get some epoxy putty.  I used milliput white for these bases.  Mix it up, roll it out or whatever you have to do and put a big glop onto the base.  Get your fingers wet and smooth it out.  You don't have to be too smooth, just enough to make a good impression.

3. The sheets are HUGE, about 1ft x 1ft, so you'll have plenty of different areas to choose from.  Spray the area you want to have with some WD-40 (Which is, incidentally, the worlds best mold release for virtually anything.)
 4. Press the base into it and roll it around a bit.  You want to be sure to get it all impressed.  It's pretty easy if the epoxy putty is still a bit soft.

5. Remove the base, let dry overnight and paint to your heart content.  These really are just that easy, and one sheet of the "crazy Paving" will last several armies.  They are big enough to not make the same base twice, ever.
And that's all there is to it.  Super simple, and easy, and fun, and inexpensive and it's Internet basing idea #3,454!!

Wednesday, January 22, 2014

Tools: The $2 Paint roller/mixer for Valejo pots

  Howdy all,  been a crazy week so far, and shows no sign of improving.  I was watching some YouTube videos, and Les Bursley has a good one on rolling Vallejo paint pots instead of shaking them like I would normally do, using my paint shaker.  Well, that method always led to bubbles in the paint and paint that just shot out of the bottle when I opened it.  I hated that.  So Les was chucking the pots into a drill and spinning them.  I switched to that method and it works, but it is not very handy.  So, I came up with this...

  Yes, the $2 paint roller that is semi-guaranteed to not spin the top off or send your paint flying across the room.  All you do is put the paint pot into it, and spin the pot for a little bit.  you'll see how long it takes to mix the paint. 

  Here is my YouTube video of the creation of that bad boy, and then the picture tutorial will follow after the "read more" jump break...


And now, on to the tutorial (picture based)


Sunday, October 13, 2013

Laser Cut Card - Cyborg Sentinal (twin pack)

  Hiya folks,  Just a quick review of another FANTASTIC kit from Laser Cut Card. This one is the Cyborg Sentinel Twin-pack.  As you may recall, I built the previous incarnation kit, the Monolith and I was thoroughly jazzed with it.  Well, this kit is even, and I mean A LOT better!!

  As you can see in the pic right here, the Sentinals have a nice angle to them, unlike the monolith, which is a square.  Also, gone is the cardstock crystal, replaced by the green power crystals that mount into the holders perfectly.  The package comes with 2 complete Sentinals, as you see here.  Ingenious cut outs in the 'sprue' allow the crystals to ship relatively flat in the package.

  Assembly is dead easy, even more than the square monolith.  I like the fact that all the stuff in the symbols on the sides is 'backed up' by a small piece of card that you glue in.  You can see it in the pic below.  That means the highlight painting is even easier on this kit!


Tuesday, October 8, 2013

Laser Cut Card Objective Markers - Necron



  Well, Neal from Laser Cut Card did it again!  Another home run in the Necron coolness department.  These are some dead simple objective markers for themed for a Necron force and they are just great. 
  What makes them so great?  Notice the dice in the midst of the marker.  This is a great way to show what mysterious terrain you are in.  You can just roll the die, set it into the marker and voila, instant remembering.  I have the GW munitorium objective marker sets, and I like the stands and the dice, mind you, but the color and contrast makes them damned hard to read.
  These markers are pretty big, but not overly so, you can see the size in relation to a die.  One side has the normal spread of number 1,2,2,3,3,4 while the other side has a generic Necron emblem.  They are three layers thick of the heavy duty card Neal uses, so there is very little chance of the die getting bumped or jostled out of the marker during a game.  If you're tough enough to knock the die out of it, you're probably a rage-quitter... seek professional help :)


Tuesday, August 20, 2013

The $20, 286 pot paint rack (wall mounted)

  Yep, you heard me.  $20 will get you this 4ft x 2.5ft wall hanging paint rack.  It is bottle agnostic, so you can store GW, Valejo, P3 and any old kinda paint bottle you want. No way, you say.  Yes, way, I say. The key here is laziness and letting someone else do all the hard work for you.  And here is how it's done...

You will need;

  • 1 - 2x4 sheet of pegboard (~$9.00 at Lowes or Home Depot)
  • 33 - 36" 5/16 Dowel rods (The job is way easier if you get 3/16" dowels rods, but they seemed a little too flimsy for me) ($0.59 at Michaels Hobby Supply or $0.79 at Ace Hardware)

Tools you will need;

  • Drill (easy) or Drill Press (easier) with 5/16" (or 3/16") drill bit
  • Table Saw (easy), band saw (easy), jig saw (harder), hand saw (damn! buy a band saw!)
  • Sweat
  • spray paint (optional)

Now, follow along with the pictures...

Wednesday, August 14, 2013

Necrons with Lollipops, or masking with Silly Putty

  Well, not exactly lollipops, but the first time I looked at at this setup, it struck me as a good title.

  A while back I saw a video from Les Bursley on his youtube channel about using silly putty to mask figs and how easy it was.  Well, I had just painted up Nemessor Zhandrek and Vargard Obyron and done a feeble attempt with ghost tints and power weapons, so I wanted to mask that area off before I hit the figs with dullcote (Or in this case, Army Painter Matte finish spray)

  I rolled out the silly putty into a thin sheet with my clay rolling pin and then cut out some sheets;