Friday, November 30, 2018

The care and feeding of brushes, and how to fix them when you don’t.


Using your brushes so that they last a lifetime.

  We all know that we need to care for our brushes, but after seeing some things recently, I have come to understand that there are a lot of people who don't know how to just that yet.  So here are my guidelines for how to care for your brushes, and what to do if you don't sometimes...
  These are guidelines, not rules to live by.  We all have habits, some bad and some good.  These are really just things to think about was you use your brushes.  I would, however, say things in the ‘never’ list you really should try to avoid doing.

       Always

o      Use a brush for one medium only.  Don’t use the same brushes for oil paints (or oil washes) and then acrylics.   The stuff used to clean oil brushes is pretty harsh (mineral spirits) and will really wear a brush out. 
o      Always wet a brush before you start painting.  Don't pick up paint with a dry brush.Unless you're dry-brushing, of course.
o      Once a brush is charged with paint, begin painting with it immediately.  This will pull the paint away from the ferrule.
o      Once you have rinsed a brush, shake out the excess water rather than rubbing or squeezing it out with a cloth or paper towel.  Never pinch and pull on the tuft with a towel, as this will break or pull out the hairs.
o      Wash and shape the brush hairs when you finish your work session, using lukewarm water and a commercial artists' brush cleaner (links below)
o      Treat synthetic brushes with the same care as natural hair brushes.  The rule to never rest a brush on its tip is even more important with synthetic brushes since they tend to retain any shape they get into.
o      Dip out and mix paints with an old brush or stick, never your best brushes.  If you’re mixing on a palette using your good brushes, just be sure not to get paint up in the ferrule.  

       Never

o      ‘Reshape’ a brush with scissors or X-Acto blade.  Trimming the ends of a natural hair brush leaves them in a 'broken' state and they will never get back to 'normal'.
o      Never hold a loaded brush with the tip pointing upwards.  The paint will ‘wick’ towards the ferrule and make it harder to clean.
o      Leave a brush sitting point down in water
o      Leave a brush wet with paint for extended periods
o      Let it dry out with paint on it especially in the tuft (or ferrule)
o      Clean or rinse a brush in hot water.  Hot water can affect the glue up in the ferrule and allow the hairs to pull out or get misshaped.
o      Avoid submerging the tuft in paint for long periods. This encourages the capillary action that causes paint to migrate up the hairs into the ferrule, where it is difficult to get out.
o      Do not submerge the brush in water beyond the top of the ferrule. Water will seep into the ferrule from either end.  This could cause the handle to swell, crack, and loosen in the ferrule.

Cleaning brushes correctly

  Cleaning is really straightforward, but if you’re not doing it right, you can really ruin brushes fast.  The cheaper the brushes, the more they get affected by bad practices.
       Never use hot water!  (see above)
       Use a purpose-made brush soap (Masters or Jentastic Goop), baby shampoo or something super gentle.  Never use hand soap or harsh cleansers.
o      Get the brush good and wet with water, swirl it in the soap until it lathers up a bit, then brush it in the palm of your hand to ‘scrub’ the bristles.  Never jab it or move it in a motion that would go against the ‘grain’ of the hairs.  Always be ‘pulling’ it toward the natural lay of the hairs. 
o      Rinse the soap out carefully in water, swirling it around for a while. 
o      Once cleaned, shake excess water from the brush.  Don’t dry a brush by wiping the tuft with a towel.  If necessary, shape the brush gently against the side of your finger so that it comes to a balanced point. Wash brushes need to be shaken out more assertively, as they hold more water.
o      If you’re crazy like me, now is the time to dip it into some hair conditioner (you’re wife’s bottle is probably in the shower, go grab a small squeeze of it in a small seal-able cup.  She won’t mind.)  Seriously, brushes are just animal hairs, and they dry out.  Conditioner helps them

Remedies - When you don't follow the 'guidelines'

  A good brush is always worth the investment. Not only is the finest quality, natural hair brush a joy to use, it can always be returned to its original state no matter how bad you treat it.  Cheap ‘box store’ brushes are not so forgiving.  Everyone I have met who swears by cheap brushes changes their tune when they start using quality brushes.
  That said, poor care and use of brushes can lead to them getting really hard to use.  Most often, the head of a brush will start to splay as pigment becomes trapped between the hairs in the ferrule.  This is what normally keeps them from holding a good point.  This will occur if paint is not thoroughly washed from the brush after every use, or the brush is used too aggressively to pick up or apply paint.  There are ways to fix this though!

   Winsor & Newton sells a brush restorer chemical that is designed to ‘gently’ eat the paint that has dried in the ferrule.  I have used this stuff with great success on even some of the most abused brushes (Elric!).  All you need to do is put the brush into the bottle of cleaner (or a separate container, see the photo.) up to and a little past the ferrule.  This will let the cleaner fluid work the dried acrylic out of the brush.  They recommend soaking the brush for hours or even overnight if need be. 




  Once it has soaked for a decent period of time, run through the cleaning cycle.  Use clean water, brush soap and gentle scrubbing.

Hair conditioner

  As brushes are used and cleaned in normal painting, the natural oils in the hairs are worn or washed away. The usual symptoms are that the hairs will begin to look dried out or frizzled, the brush will not point as promptly when wet, and stray hairs begin to appear.   Some folks will use brush soap and actually leave it in the bristles without washing it out.  Let it dry them in an hour or so, rinse it thoroughly.  Most times that will work to recondition the brush.
  You can also wet and wash the brush in lukewarm water and then apply a small amount of hair conditioner to the wet clean hairs, work it in thoroughly with your fingertips, shape the brush to a point or flat edge, and let it sit for an hour or so. Thoroughly rinse out the conditioner and shape the brush to dry, and repeat if necessary.

Brush shaper or Gum arabic.

  After washing, if the hairs or bristles are still crazy splayed out, you can use gum arabic or brush shaper to shape the brush back to a point (most natural hair brushes come preshaped with gum Arabic on them and need to be cleaned before use).  Dip the brush in the brush shaper or gum arabic solution, shape with your fingers, and set it down where it can rest undisturbed to dry.   The longer it sits, the better the result will be.  Keep in mind though, if there is dried paint in the ferrule, it will not stay pointed for long after this treatment.  Go back to the remedy section.

Stray hairs.

  Almost always, just leave these alone, as long as the brush shapes to a good point and the strays do not interfere with your brushwork.  If you need to remove a nuisance hair, grip the hair carefully with thumb and finger, or a pair of tweezers near, the visible base (not the tip) of the hair shaft, pull it down and to the side against the edge of the ferrule, and snap it off at the edge, using the ferrule edge to cut it.  Try not to ‘pull it out’ from the ferrule, as it will leave a tiny bit of a hole in the glue and allow gunk to build up.  Don’t try to cut stray hairs with scissors or a blade, you won’t be able to trim it close to the ferrule without damaging the tuft.   
  Never attempt to "trim" stray hairs by holding the dry brush tuft near or against a flame. This will very likely burn off other hairs in the tuft and can invisibly blunt the tips of the hairs in the point as well.

Storage

o      Never store a wet brush upright, the liquid will just wick up into the ferrule and that’s never good.  Leave the brush horizontal or face down (not resting on the hairs) to dry, then store them upright.
o      Never store a damp brush in an airtight container. The dampness will cause mildew, and that will destroy the brush hairs.  Baaad!
o      Don't store brushes near heat (furnace vents, sunlit windows).  Heat is not a brush’s friend.

Traveling with brushes

o      To carry brushes on trips, use a brush roll holder or something expressly designed for that purpose.  Lots of companies sell roll up or zippered pocketed holders for brushes.  Tossing them into a box may not always be the best answer, they take a lot of abuse banging around like that.
o      Once home, brushes should be immediately unpacked from the holders, cleaned, shaped and dried in the usual way.  (Unless you already did it on your trip…)

  Always remember, once a brush is useless for one purpose, find something else for it to do.  Maybe it becomes the brush you use to pull paints out of a pot, or mix on your palette?  Maybe it becomes a new drybrush?  
  So there you have it, just an average painters ideas about taking care of your brushes.  Do you have to follow this like law?  Hell no, nobody would, but if I manage to change one bad habit, my work here will be done!

Wednesday, November 21, 2018

The mini painters drying/curing chamber

   So, I made a thing. It’s a thing almost nobody needs. The thing is, when you need this thing, you need it like nothing else ever. (Everyone needs a Thneed…)
   Yes, I present the miniature painters drying/curing chamber. In a nutshell, this is just a very low power heater and two computer fans in a box. The low power heater is just there to provide a LITTLE warmth, but not necessarily heat. The fans are the key part, since acrylics dry more with air movement than heat. (It’s an evaporative process…)
   The one I built is proof of concept, and it works. It is neither pretty, nor does it use the best materials. I am certain there are far better choices for materials out there, feel free to experiment and tell me all about it. I would love to do a version 2!
   This is not a step by step tutorial, but rather a series of ideas stitched together with pictures. You’ll get the idea as we progress.

What you need

  • A box to be the chamber. I used a “Really Useful Box” in the 9.1 liter size. I chose it because it had nice straight sides to mount the fans on and it also fit the size of the heater nicely. $12.00
  • A power transformer of 12VDC or less. You can find these labelled as ‘chargers’ all over the place. You probably have some in a drawer somewhere that you can’t recall what they charge. The output has to be less than 12v DC but more than 5v DC. The fans normally look for 12 VDC but will also work on 5 VDC at a much slower speed. I found one that was 8.7VDC. You will cut the end off, so make sure you don’t need it for anything else.

  • 2 Computer fans – I used 80mm fans I got from Best Buy for $6.99 each. You don’t want super-fast rotational LED lit OMG fans. Just cheap 12v computer fans. (More on why later)
  • A reptile heating pad. They sell these at pet stores, they must be avoided at all costs!!!! The pet store markup is on average 300%. I found the same reptile heating pad on amazon (7w) for $9.99 while at the pet store is $39.99. I went with 7W because it is low heat and won’t burn the plastic box, while still providing some ambient warmth in the box. Remember, we want warm, not hot.
  • A rack of some kind to set minis on. I used granny grating from a Hobby Lobby, you might find a nice metal rack or make something of your own… Be free, choose wisely! (Granny grating is the latch hook rug stuff you can find at craft stores in the yarn sections. It’s just plastic sheet with lots of square holes in it. Makes great basing and terrain material too. It’s about $2 for more than you’ll ever use ;)

You will need some tools as well.


  • A soldering iron to connect the wires on the fans and maybe the heating pad as well (if it has a regulator switch). If you are not handy with a soldering iron, you can use wire nuts from the hardware store and splice connectors from the same store.
  • A Dremel tool to drill the holes in the box. You could also use just a regular drill and bits, but the Dremel makes it faster.
  • A multi-meter. You need this to check the polarity of the wiring of everything. You can get them super cheap at Dollar stores, Wal-Mart etc. You do not need a Fluke $300 job, just one that shows volts DC.
  • A wild sense of abandon and experimentation…

A note on safety

 

YOU WILL BE WORKING WITH ELECTRICAL WIRES. NEVER SOLDER OR WORK ON ANY PART OF THIS WITH ANY THING PLUGGED IN TO A LIVE OUTLET. YOU COULD DIE!!!!!!!
Yeah, I know, safety warnings are lame, but seriously, make sure this stuff is unplugged before you do anything. Don’t be a Darwin award winner.

Assembly steps. Kinda…



   First up, measure and drill the holes for the fans on the opposite sides of the box. I drilled the first hole, started the screw to hold it in place then drilled the rest. One the holes are drilled, you’ll need to remove the plastic on the box for the fan to blow through. I found the easy way was to mark the opening for the fan, then drill a bunch of holes in the plastic, then used a hobby keyhole saw to “connect the dots”. I mounted my fans inside the box, just to make it easier to store and not worry about knocking the fans about. You do lose a little room, but it’s not a big deal.
 
   I also mounted one fan near the bottom of the box and one closer to the top. I ‘think’ it gives a little better airflow, but who knows. As you mount the fans, take a note of the direction of the airflow. Each fan will have an arrow on its case that shows which way the air flows through it. You’ll need to mount one fan to ‘pull air in’ and the other fan to blow the air out. This will make sure that all the air that goes through the box will flow across the minis in the box. 

   Next, you’ll need to install the heater. Mine has a big power regulator/switch about halfway up the cord. There was no way I wanted to drill that big a hole in the box, so I marked my cord and cut it. If you’re not seriously confident of your electrical skillz, just drill/cut a hole big enough for the cable then use duct tape to close it up. If you are confident in splicing/soldering the cables, just separate the 2 cords of the cable, mark it with tape in two places and cut away. The splice them together after you run it through the hole in the box. MAKE SURE IT IS NOT PLUGGED IN!!!!!
   Just place the heating pad on the bottom and either tape or hot glue it down.  Simple as that.  Run the cord out and you're almost home.
   Now, to wire the fans. This is fun. The fans will have a red wire, a black wire and a blue wire (normally). Red is positive, black is negative and the blue wire is not needed here. (It reports the fan’s RPM to the computer in case you’re wondering.) We want to but the wires off as close to the computer connecter as you can. Then cut the blue wire off and throw it away or save it for other projects. Also cut off the power transformer near the tip.
   This is where you need the multi-meter and SAFETY! Strip off some wire from each side of the transformer cable. Make sure the exposed wires stay separate (Tape them to your work surface so that they do not touch.) Plug the transformer in and use the probes to find the positive wire. (The red probe will be on the positive wire when the meter indicates positive voltage. If the meter shows a minus sign, switch the two probes until you see positive voltage (no minus sign)). Mark the positive side with tape and UNPLUG THE TRANSFORMER.
  Now, either solder the newly found positive wire to the two red wires or use the wire nuts to connect them. Do the same for the black fan wires and the negative wire from the transformer. Now is test number one. Plug the transformer in and make sure the fans spin, and that that flow the air correctly (one in, one out of the box).
   To make the shelf, I just cut out some Granny grating to fit the box, leaving a space for the fans. Then I hot glued that to five, one inch long dowels and set it in the box.
  Voila! You have a mini curing, drying box.

How to use it

   The nice part about having the dual plugs, one for fans and one for heat is simple. If you just want to dry wash or a layer of paint, put the mini in, put on the lid, plug the fans in and let the air current do the work. If you need to do a more serious cure, say green stuff, texture paints or some other thick stuff, you can add the heater to the outlet.
   The heater at such low wattage is not going to warm up all that much. Remember, it’s designed to not hurt a small lizard, so it’s just going to warm the air a tiny bit.
   But Bill, can’t you do the same thing with a blow dryer? Why yes, Jimmy, you can. But while you’re sitting there holding the blow dryer on your model(s), you’re not painting other models, or building, or taking the wife to lunch. It just saves time…
   Is it perfect, naaah. It is cool though! I love it for getting washes dried in half the time as usual, and for setting texture paints on bases in short order.
  Let me know what you think. (I already know I’m crazy, no need for that…)


Thursday, November 15, 2018

Slowfuse gaming Bomb Wick brushes - a non-pro painter's review


  So, a few months back I ordered a set of these brushes from Slowfuse gaming.  I did it mostly because CK Studios recommends them for brush work.  After using them a while, I can see why.  They are really nice brushes, at a decent price and they have a lot of the things I like in a brush.

  Please, keep in mind, I am not a pro-painter, I'm just a tabletop ready kind of guy.  But I do like my tools to be good, and I do hope to improve my paint game as I go.  With the likes of Warhammer Community, Vince Venturella and others, I think my paint game is improving.  But you'll be the judge of that!  I say this so that you know not too place more stock in my review as opposed to a real pro painter.  But if Caleb recommends them, I'm certain I can't be too far off the mark.

The Shipping and Presentation

  The brushes shipped in a very nice, big tube, all had nice brush sleeves to protect the bristles.  No complaints on how they shipped.








  As you can see, I got 7 in total.  A #3, #2, #1, #0, #00, #000 and an x10.  I also picked up a tin of their brush soap.  Glad I did too, it's very good.  More on that later

  The brushes feel very solid, no loose crimps or manufacturing defects I could see.  They are light and have a good thickness to the handle that fits my hand well.

First clean

  Interestingly, there is a warning on the side of the tube that tells you to wash the brushes in a good brush soap before the first use.  This is because they ship them with a brush saver coating on them.  Brush saver is just a thick liquid that dries on the bristles and holds them in their pointed shape nicely and also helps keep the bristles free of moisture and contamination.  It's like putting conditioner in your hair.



  A lot of brushes ship this way, at least high end ones (Raphael, Winsor Newton etc.) but this is the first time I have seen the warning on the packaging.  Normally it's on a website or something.  Experienced painters know about this, but those new to the hobby might not, so I thought this was a very good touch.  Kudos to them for thinking of us 'little people'

Using the brushes


  As you can see in the picture, each of the brushes is long, and 'fat' and they come to a nice point.  The long and fat part means they can hold a fair amount of paint giving you more time 'on the mini' and less scooping up more paint.  The nice point means you can be accurate and, if you have a steady hand, get decent results with you brush strokes.

Snappiness

  One thing I look for in a brush is how 'snappy' it is.  I have no idea what the professionals call this, or if they even care about it.  To me, the snappiness is how the brush reacts as you finish your stroke and come off the mini.  Some brushes will snap really hard, sometimes even flinging paint at places you don't want.  Others will hang there limply in the same shape it was at the end of your stroke.  Then you find yourself having to 're-shape' the fine point before another stroke.   I'm not sure if that was a great description, but it makes sense to me.

  One of my issues with the GW brushes over time has been that they snap really hard when you end your stroke.  While this is ok sometimes, when I am blending or doing detail work, it's not great.  The Winsor-Newtons have a lot of snap also, less on the Raphael's. 

  These brushes seem to be a very nice middle ground between snapping back and retaining their shape.  The do return back to a nice straight shape quickly, but they also hold their point really well also.  It just seems to me to make them more enjoyable to use than other brushes in my stable.  Again, I'm not sure if this is really a thing, but with brushes, it's usually just a little thing that separates one brand from another.

  Using them also seems to be a very nice experience as well.  The paint flows well off of them (if it is thinned properly, of course).  The have a good feel in the hand and the hairs/bristles are fine enough that they do a great job without a lot of brush stroke marks (again, if you're properly thinned.)  I guess the best thing to say about them is that I keep going back to them to use rather than some of my others.

Brush Soap

  As you can see in the pictures, I also grabbed a tin of Jentastic's Drunken Brush Goop.  This is just a tin of brush soap, and if you know about caring for your brushes, you know brush soap is a must.  I have always used Masters Brush soap, it comes in a beige/brown plastic tub and is the almost universal go to for artists of all types.   Well, I tried the brush goop, and I have to say, it is different from masters (not just repackaged) and I kind of like it.



  It has a different look, and when you swirl a wet brush in it, it does not immediately lather up like the Master's does.  Instead it gets very soapy and slick.  Then when you whirl it around your palm, it lathers up nicely and seems to me, anyhow, to clean the paint out quicker.  Sometimes I have to soap, swirl, rinse and repeat with the Masters multiple times.  With the Jentastic goop, I was usually cleaned up in one pass.  It also 'seems' to me that the hairs are a little softer when they dry?  This is not a scientific comparison, it's all just observation and gut feeling, so you mileage may vary.  I would say if you don't already have Master's soap, then look into this.  If you have some already, you will never need more, so...

Reflections

  So, overall impressions.  I really like these brushes a lot.  They do everything you expect a brush to do.  They have great feel to them and they feel really good to use.  As a non Pro painter, I definitely give them a serious thumbs up.  And since Caleb Wisenback also does, and he is a pro, I can safely recommend them to anyone looking to step up their game.

  One thing I should add, I bought these and did not receive them to review.

This blog is not dead... It's only mostly dead... but...


Really.

   Ok, I know, I know, I have been focused on the podcast lately, and the few odd YouTube videos, but that is going to change. For some odd reason, I want to get back to the blog. I know blogs are archaic and old-school, but hey, so am I!


   I'm working on a post reviewing some paint brushes, and there are more topics in the works as well.
 

So, there it is. 

This blog shall rise from the ashes of disuse!

Now I'm committed!